Katy Beh Jewelry

About 22k Gold

Buttery, rich, yummy yellow gold. What's not to love?

I use only 22k gold in making my jewelry.

I alloy the gold myself in my studio. I start with "fine" or pure gold (0.9999) shot or grain.

Exact proportions of fine silver and copper are then added to the molten pure gold, creating an alloy suitable for making jewelry.

The final ratio is 22 parts pure gold to 2 parts fine silver and copper.

First, the gold grain is heated to its melting point of 1947.52 °F. At this purity gold is 24k. After the gold, silver, and copper are blended an alloy of 22k gold is made.

The alloy is cooled and formed into an ingot using a steel forging hammer and block. This condenses the density of the gold.

From there the ingot is either rolled out in sheets or pulled through a die to make wire.

I use a rolling mill and wire drawing mill during this phase; frequently annealing (heating the gold until it glows red, and returning the gold to room temperature slowly) to re-establish malleability after it’s been work-hardened and won’t reduce further without cracking and breaking.

22k yellow gold is distinguished by its rich color and develops a beautiful luster when worn.

It is more malleable than metals often used in mass produced jewelry such as 18k gold, 14k gold and platinum. The inherent weight and density gained from being hand wrought gives 22k yellow gold jewelry strength.

The tradition of using 22k yellow gold, and the methods I use to make my jewelry are centuries old.

The same classical goldsmithing methods I employ have been used for 5000 years. It is very labor intensive and exacting, demanding patience and discipline.

All my jewelry designs are made from the gold wire and sheet I produce in my studio. This method of hand fabrication is unlike techniques used in factory made jewelry, and is rarely found in jewelry making because of the time it takes to produce and the high cost of labor associated with production.

Learn more about my jewelry techniques: